XVIII

EXAMINATION HALL AND OBSERVATORY, TOGETHER WITH SOME CHINESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS

THE great collection of cells, in common parlance, but by a misnomer called the Examination Hall, was not far from our garden, but during the Boxer uprising had been devastated and everything available stolen from it. In old days the aspirants, some 10,000 in number, all men holding the degree of Chu-jen (the second literary degree in China) met here once in three years to be examined for the degree called Chin-shih. The man who came out first in the list received the title of Hway-yuen, and was, of course, esteemed by the people the ablest man of the 10,000 students or thereabouts coming from all the eighteen provinces of China. The Emperor after this would appoint certain high officials to examine the students who had just obtained the degree of Chin-shih; and from these the examiner would select, for their superior abilities, some two hundred men. From among these two hundred, after another examination, the examiners would select ten of the ablest, tried both by their treatment of subjects and the writing of characters. This last is a special branch of study in China, where as much artistic skill is often devoted to a curve or dash in a character as to a painting. The papers of these ten men, made up into pamphlets, were then laid before the Emperor himself, who from them would select for the highest degree of official rank three men called the first Chwang-yuen, the second Pang-yen, and the third Tan-hwa, who would then be looked upon by the people of China as possessing the right to the highest offices in the land.

Over the gateways of the houses where a man has gained a high degree the fact is inscribed in large and golden characters, and so eager are Chinese that their sons should gain degrees that it is the custom to give several dollars to the man who is first to report to a family the fact that their son has received the degree of Chii-jen, The second man receives a reward also, but considerably less than the first. In 1885 a number of men determined to avail themselves of the opportunity of making money which such a custom presented. They armed them- ;elves with knives and pistols, which they concealed inder their clothing ; others of them held leaflets such is are regularly sold in the streets during an examinaion, and that are meant to contain the names of the successful candidates. One or two carried crackers to be fired off at the proper time* Thus prepared they proceeded to the house of a man named Ho, who lived in a street which rejoiced in the name of Five Blessings Street. The foremost man went to the door to congratulate the family on its good fortune. The second reporter was close at his heels, and then followed the men with the leaflets. All marched inside and then revealed their true mission. They presented their arms, and threatened to kill any one who made a noise. They then robbed the house of some thousand dollars in money and clothing. On coming out their congratulations were long and loud. At the door they fired off their crackers, thus thoroughly deluding the neighbours, and amidst the noise and uproar of a pretended family gathering got away. The hardest part of the bad luck was the fact that no member of the Ho family had gained a degree that year.

第十八章

考試院與觀象台，以及一些中國的風俗習慣

考試院這個名稱，平常用語中被稱為考場，但實際上這個稱呼並不準確。它距我們的花園不遠，但在義和團運動期間遭到了破壞，所有有價值的東西都被盜走了。從前，每三年有大約10,000名持有「舉人」學位（中國的第二等文學學位）的考生齊聚於此，參加「進士」學位的考試。在這些考生中，名列第一的人被授予「會元」的稱號，當然，他被認為是從全中國十八個省來的這一萬名考生中最有才華的人。

隨後，皇帝會任命一些高級官員來考核剛獲得「進士」學位的考生，並從中選出約200名才華出眾的考生。這200名考生中，經過再次考核，考官會挑選出10名最優秀的考生，這些考生不僅要處理考題，還要在書寫方面展現才華。書法在中國是一門專門的學問，往往需要具備與繪畫相同的藝術技巧，甚至一個字中的一個彎曲或一筆劃都能展現出極大的藝術價值。這10名考生的考卷會被編成冊子，呈送給皇帝，由皇帝親自從中選出三名最高等級的官職候選人，分別被稱為「狀元」、「榜眼」和「探花」，他們被視為有資格擔任全國最重要職位的人。

在一個人獲得高學位的住宅門口，這一事實會以大字和金色字體刻寫，因為中國人非常渴望他們的兒子能夠獲得學位，因此有一個習俗，即向第一個向家人報告兒子獲得「舉人」學位的人給予幾美元的獎金，第二個報信者也會獲得獎金，但數額遠不如第一個人。在1885年，一群人決定利用這種習俗來賺錢。他們配備了刀具和手槍，並將其藏在衣服下；另外一些人手持在考試期間街上常見的小冊子，這些小冊子通常會列出成功考生的名字。一兩個人還帶著鞭炮，以便在適當的時候燃放。他們這些人準備好後前往一個名叫何的人家中，這家住在一條名為「五福街」的街上。第一個人走到門口，向何家祝賀其好運，第二個報信者緊隨其後，然後是拿著小冊子的人。他們全部進入屋內，然後暴露了他們的真實意圖。他們亮出武器，威脅要殺死任何發出聲音的人。隨後，他們搶劫了房子裡的數千美元現金和衣物。出來時，他們大聲長時間地祝賀，在門口燃放鞭炮，徹底欺騙了鄰居，並在假裝家族聚會的喧鬧聲中逃之夭夭。而這次最倒霉的事情是，何家那一年根本沒有任何人考取學位。

EXAMINATION HALL AND OBSERVATORY 229

With this intense national interest taken in the literary examinations, possibly surpassing even that felt in the Derby among ourselves, it may be imagined how hard the sentence was thought when, in punishment for the anti-foreign uprising in 1900, examinations were prohibited in Peking, the capital, in Chihli Province, and in Tai-yuen-fu, the capital of the adjacent province of Shansi, this prohibition to hold good for five years. In eight other provinces examinations were forbidden for the space of one year, whilst seven provinces only were allowed to hold them as usual, this making it all the harder for the provinces where they were forbidden, as the men from the latter could not go to the former to be examined, but had to possess their souls in patience, if they could, and wait even to qualify for holding office. After which there is generally long and indefinite waiting. This was part of the penalty the Governments of Europe demanded to atone for the murder of their subjects.

It is sad now to wander through the 10,000 disused cells of Peking, but it never can have been cheerful. There no more than in the provinces could the unhappy candidate by any possibility lie down or stretch himself at full length, although shut up there for the space of two nights and a day. A board for a seat and a board for a table constituted his only luxuries, and it shows how great is the admiration for learning and how marvellous the Chinese powers of endurance that the manhood of the nation has continued to submit itself to the discomforts involved. If a competitor died during the examinations, as is often the case, a hole had to be made in the wall through which to carry him out, as no corpse might pass through the gates. In connection with the great congress of many religions held at Chicago three prizes were offered for the best essays on Confucianism and three for the best essays on Taoism, the more ancient religion of China. It was then interesting to notice that the prize for the best essay on Confucianism was awarded to one K'ung Hsien-ho, a lineal descendant of the great sage, K'ung Fu-tze (Confucius, as we call him) ; whilst the first prize in connection with Taoism was taken by a man called Li Pao-yuen, boasting the same surname as Li Lao-tze, the founder of Taoism.

由於全國對科舉考試的濃厚興趣，這種關注甚至可能超過我們對德比賽馬的熱情，可以想像，當1900年因反外國勢力起義而被懲罰時，北京這個首都以及直隸省和山西省省會太原府的考試被禁止五年的決定是多麼艱難。其他八個省的考試則被禁止了一年，只有七個省被允許照常舉行考試，這使得那些被禁止考試的省份的情況更加困難，因為這些省份的考生不能前往其他省份參加考試，只能忍耐等待，甚至連資格也無法獲得以便能夠擔任官職。而在那之後，通常還要經歷漫長而不確定的等待。這是歐洲各國政府為了懲罰其國民被殺害而要求的部分代價。

如今，走過北京這一萬個廢棄的考場，令人感到悲哀，但它從來不會是令人愉快的地方。在這裡以及各省一樣，不幸的考生不可能躺下或完全伸展身體，儘管他們需要在這裡關閉兩夜一天。他們唯一的「奢侈品」就是一塊用作座位的板和一塊用作桌子的板，這顯示了中國人對學問的崇敬以及他們驚人的忍耐力，這讓全國的男人們持續忍受這些不便。如果考試期間有考生死亡（這種情況經常發生），必須在牆上鑿一個洞以將屍體運出，因為屍體不能通過大門。

在與芝加哥舉行的多宗教大會相關的活動中，曾設立了三個獎項，用以表彰關於儒教的最佳論文，還有三個獎項用以表彰關於道教的最佳論文，即中國的古老宗教之一。令人興趣的是，儒教最佳論文的獎項頒給了一位名叫孔憲和的人，他是偉大聖人孔夫子（即我們所稱的孔子）的直系後裔；而道教最佳論文的首獎則由一位名叫李寶元的人獲得，他的姓氏與道教創始人老子（李老子）相同。

EXAMINATION HALL AND OBSERYATORY 231

Close to the Examination Hall is the magnificent site upon the top of the eastern wall towards its southern end, whence the German troops in 1900 carried off the thirteenth-century astronomical instruments, which were of no scientific use, but of great artistic beauty, especially when they stood in situ, commanding a view not only of the sky, but of all the country round. Themselves seen against the clear Peking sky, they were one of the objects travellers went first to visit. Many people think the Chinese did not attach equal value to them, but when I was standing one day alone in the small ruined building at the base of the ramp leading up to the wall, gazing somewhat sadly at the vestiges of the then very beautiful instruments that used to stand there one, I remember, an astrolabe and that have all been wrenched off and carried away, although by Chinese realism the writhing dragons of which they were composed were all chained down to my surprise a carrying coolie passing by stopped and entered into conversation with me, beginning, " And they were such beautiful dragons. It is a pity, is it not?" Chinese, especially those of the educated and upper classes, are not fond of showing their feelings, only occasionally the mask drops, and one is astonished to discover the white heat of feeling that has been concealed.

Once, when I was seeing some friends off by a steamer, a young man stepped forward to the railing beside me and waved to some one on the shore we

were leaving. He called out : " Goodbye, Mr. , goodbye." Then, not being heard, repeated the words. They were simple enough, but never in all my life have I heard words expressing such a wild delirium of joy. Across the months as I recall them I still feel a thrill of sympathy. He was dressed in European clothes, but, as I afterwards learnt, was a young Chinese, who had studied hard and worked hard, and having made and saved enough money to pay for his further education, was now on his way to England to prosecute his studies. When I think of those tones of wild excitement I cannot but hope that he has met with sympathy and encouragement among the denizens of our more temperate clime. But could anything in life ever come up to the joy that young man felt in anticipation when he shouted that wild goodbye ?

靠近考試院的地方，是位於東城牆南端的壯麗地點。1900年，德國軍隊從這裡帶走了十三世紀的天文儀器，這些儀器雖然在科學上已無實際用途，但卻具有極高的藝術價值，尤其是在原地展示時，不僅可以觀察到天空，還可以俯瞰周圍的廣闊地區。這些儀器在清澈的北京天空下，成為旅行者最先要拜訪的景點之一。許多人認為中國人並未給予這些儀器同等的重視，但有一天，我獨自站在通往城牆的坡道下方的小破舊建築中，悲傷地凝視著曾經矗立在那裡的、如今只剩殘跡的美麗儀器。我記得，其中有一個星盤，這些儀器已被強行拆除並運走。儘管按照中國現實主義的風格，那些由蜿蜒的龍組成的裝飾物都是被鎖鏈鎖住的，但令我驚訝的是，一位經過的挑夫停下腳步，與我攀談起來，開口便說：「那些龍是多麼美麗，真是可惜，不是嗎？」中國人，尤其是受過教育的上層階級，不喜歡表露感情，但偶爾面具會掉下來，讓人驚訝地發現那隱藏的強烈情感。