XIV

ON THE DRUM AND BELL TOWERS

ONE afternoon I was out by myself calling at one of the great missionary establishments that were razed to the ground even the foundations dug up during the Boxer rising of 1900, but that are now once again becoming a striking feature in the views of Peking, and on the way home I found myself nearing the Drum Tower. In all Chinese cities the Drum Tower is placed about the centre, but Peking city now presents a much shorter line of wall to the east and west than it did in the days of Cambalu ; thus the Drum Tower, occupying its ancient position, is near the Northern Wall, due north of the Imperial city with its forbidden centre of glittering palaces. Although built under the Mongol dynasty it is quite Chinese in character, thus unlike the adjacent Bell Tower, which last with its strangely mediaeval, Mongol air, is one of the features of Peking, that most easily lends itself to the artist's brush. And the fact that from the Drum Tower you look upon the Bell Tower very greatly enhances the interest of the view from the former, which, however, is also far the better placed for points of view. I climbed up the long, straight staircase, which certainly makes one think how delightful it would be if one could realise the Russian ideal, as shown forth in the customary phrase, " To get to the top of the ladder without climbing the rungs," and then after a dark turn or two passed out upon the balcony running round the building. The shades of evening were gathering fast, and as I stepped out innumerable swallows, that had been settling themselves for the night, flew out disturbed and began circling and sweeping past, fanning my face with the air set in motion by their swift movements.

十四

關於鼓樓與鐘樓

有一天下午，我獨自外出，拜訪了一處偉大的傳教機構，這些建築在1900年的義和團運動中被夷為平地，甚至連地基都被挖掉，但現在它們再次成為北京景觀中的醒目特徵。在回家的路上，我發現自己正接近鼓樓。在所有中國城市中，鼓樓通常位於城市的中心位置，但如今的北京城東西兩面的城牆比起元大都時期要短得多，因此，鼓樓仍然占據著它古老的位置，靠近北城牆，正北方對著皇城，那裡是閃閃發光的宮殿群，禁止人們進入。儘管這座鼓樓建於蒙古王朝時期，但它完全具備中式風格，這一點與鄰近的鐘樓截然不同。鐘樓帶有一種奇異的中世紀蒙古氣息，成為北京的一大特色，最容易被藝術家的畫筆描繪。而且，從鼓樓俯瞰鐘樓，更增加了這一景觀的吸引力。不過，鼓樓的位置本身就佔據了更佳的觀景點。

我攀登著那條筆直的長階梯，這確實讓人不禁想到，如果能夠實現俄羅斯人常說的理想，「不攀爬階梯就能到達頂端」該有多好。經過幾個黑暗的轉角後，我來到了環繞建築的陽台上。夜幕迅速降臨，當我踏出陽台時，無數隻原本已經安頓好的燕子受到驚擾，飛了出來，開始盤旋和掠過我的身邊，牠們快速飛行時帶動的氣流撲面而來，撫動我的臉頰。

196

ON THE DRUM AND BELL TOWERS 197

There is a very fine all round view to be obtained from this first storey of the Drum Tower. To the west there is an open space, the ruins of the late Presbyterian Mission buildings, a shallow lake, and somewhat to the south of west an avenue of willows leading to Prince Kung's residence. About a mile further off is the Temple where Sir Harry Parkes and Lord Loch were confined in 1860 ; built by an eunuch, and called the Kau Miao, the date of their imprisonment was till lately to be seen on the walls in their handwriting September 2Qth to October /th. The hills by which Peking is environed on north and west are also well seen ; the Pa-li Chuang Pagoda, the Tienming Ssu Pagoda, all the Dagobas.

To the south I gazed longingly at a group of forbidden buildings clustering round the northern gate of the Imperial city, and the broad road leading straight towards them, and wished that in 1901, when we foreigners were free to wander all about them, being then masters of the situation, I had observed everything more closely. But to observe well so much previous knowledge is necessary. Does not Comte tell us that to observe really thoroughly one must have a preconceived theory ? And I had none then.

從鼓樓的第一層可以欣賞到極佳的全景。向西望去，有一片開闊的空地，那是最近被毀的長老會傳教機構的遺址，還有一個淺湖，稍微偏南一點有一條柳樹大道，通向恭親王府。再往前大約一英里的地方，有一座寺廟，1860年，哈里·柏克斯爵士（Sir Harry Parkes）和洛克勳爵（Lord Loch）曾被囚禁在此。這座寺廟由一名太監修建，名為考廟（Kau Miao），直到最近，牆上還能看到他們的筆跡，記載著他們被囚禁的日期：9月29日至10月7日。北京北面和西面環繞的群山也可以清晰地看到，包括八里莊塔、天寧寺塔以及所有的佛塔。

向南望去，我久久凝視著一群禁地建築，這些建築環繞著皇城的北門，寬闊的道路直通其中。我不禁懷念1901年，那時我們外國人可以自由在這些地方四處遊覽，因為當時我們是掌控局勢的主人。然而，我真希望當時能更仔細地觀察一切。但要做到這一點，需要事先具備豐富的知識。孔德（Comte）不是說過，要真正徹底地觀察，必須有預設的理論嗎？而我當時並沒有這樣的理論。

Regretfully I wandered to the north side and gazed down on the clumsily beautiful Bell Tower, the Yellow Temple outside the walls, across the great Parade Ground, and the open-air Pondrette manufactory, that makes entrance to it so unpleasant. There, outside the walls, stood the Altar of Earth the tabernacles set up there at the times of sacrifice are of Imperial yellow, which against white marble produces a much better effect than the blue tabernacles on the beautiful Altar of Heaven. Inside the walls I saw the Yung-ho Kung ; the Hall of the Classics, and the Confucian Temple among their trees ; the tower upon the walls behind standing out against the sky, whilst between this group of buildings and my lofty view-point, and all around the Tower, lay spread out the whole great Tartar city. There are about fifty Foo, or Palaces, in Peking, the chief among them being those of the eight hereditary princes, or ironcapped dukes, who received this rank on account of services rendered at the time of the conquest of China. Dr. Edkins tells us : "A Foo has in front of it two large stone lions, with a house for musicians and for gatekeepers. Through a lofty gateway, on which are hung tablets inscribed with the prince's titles, the visitor enters a large square court with a paved terrace in the centre, which fronts the principal hall Here on .dtays of ceremony the slaves and dependants may be ranged in reverential posture before the prince, who sits, as master of the household, in the hall. The sons of emperors enjoy possession of a Foo, or Palace, for three lives, their descendants taking at each generation a rank one step lower. When their great-grandsons sink below the title of duke they cannot reside in the Foo which has hitherto belonged to the family ; it reverts to the Emperor, who grants it to a son of his own, or to a daughter on her marriage."

我帶著遺憾走向北邊，俯瞰著那笨拙而美麗的鐘樓、城牆外的黃寺、廣闊的練兵場，以及讓人不快的露天糞池製造廠。那裡，城牆外矗立著地壇，祭祀時設置的帳篷是皇家的黃色，這種顏色配上白色的大理石，比起美麗的天壇上的藍色帳篷，更加和諧。城牆內，我看到了雍和宮、經筵堂以及孔廟，這些建築隱藏在樹林之中；城牆上的塔樓在天空的映襯下格外顯眼，而在這些建築群與我的高處視角之間，以及鐘樓四周，整個龐大的滿城展現在我眼前。

北京大約有五十座府邸，其中最重要的是八位世襲親王或鐵帽子王的府邸，這些親王因為在征服中國時的功勞而獲得此頭銜。埃德金斯博士（Dr. Edkins）告訴我們：「一座府邸前面通常有兩隻大石獅子，以及為樂師和門衛準備的房屋。通過一座高大的大門，上面懸掛著刻有王爺頭銜的牌匾，訪客進入一個寬大的方形庭院，庭院中央有一個鋪有露臺的區域，正對著主殿。在儀式的日子裡，奴僕和家臣們會恭敬地排列在王爺面前，而王爺則作為家主，端坐在殿內。皇帝的兒子可以擁有一座府邸，並享有三代的使用權。每代後裔的頭銜會降低一級，當他們的曾孫低於公爵的頭銜時，他們便不能再住在這座家族的府邸中，這座府邸將歸還給皇帝，皇帝會將其賜予自己的兒子，或作為女兒的嫁妝。」

I stood and mused over the manner of life that may be led within these stately Palaces. It is a little strange how we all desire to be rich and great, and yet dispassionately thinking it over how much nobler in all nations is the life of the poor and hard-working than of the rich and luxurious ! I have of intention doubled my adjectives because the life of a poor skulker, who refuses to work, is probably much on a par with that of the class who must place all their guests 6n horseback to eat their dinner by way of , a little novelty to their jaded palates, or must flood the courtyard of a London hotel to dine in gondolas, and probably in Venice would think it necessary to construct a miniature Sahara and recline under palmtrees. But even when we come to the rich and hardworking calmly considering the matter, should we not pronounce the life of a cabinetmaker, who having worked his best for a certain number of hours returns to the bosom of his family unexhausted and with leisure, far preferable to that of a member of the Cabinet, who never may be said to have a minute he can call his own, who flies from political meetings to political parties till the small hours of the morning, and escapes for week-ends in the hope of that rest and self-communion which yet the manner of his life forbids him ever to find.

Standing on the Drum Tower inevitably one's eye reverts to the large ruins of the late mission buildings, and then across the years one pictures the feelings of the Englishmen of 1860 imprisoned and tortured, some of them to the death. One comfort is that residence in the East seems to make us all feel suffering less acutely. Yet one's heart aches thinking of the young, strong soldiers and correspondents in the pride and joy of life under a flag of truce and suddenly imprisoned and tortured by a race they thought so far inferior. Considering that, in spite of the wondrous beauty of the world, life is often so hard, one of the great mysteries is why we mortals are for ever making it harder for one another by wars and cruelties of many kinds.

Inside the Tower in the large dark hall there used to be a clepsydra to tell the time ; four water-vessels, from which a tiny opening at the bottom let the water escape drop by drop, the level of the water thus indicating which watch it was. These ancient vessels were replaced by incense sticks, whose lengths in like manner told the watches, as they slowly burned, emitting a sweet fragrance. They in their turn now have been replaced by a very commonplace clock. But a very large drum still stands in the middle of the upper storey, and this and the great bell in the Bell Tower are struck at each of the five watches of the night. For Chinese bells are not rung as with us, but struck from the outside.