XI AMONG PEKING PALACES

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October 5th

ONE of the excursions from Peking that no traveller should omit is to the Yuchuan Shan, the little hill or chain of little hills for it has as many tops as a Chinese pen-rest about two miles beyond the Summer Palace of Wanshou Shan. A ricsha for the day, including tips to three runners, is to be had for five shillings, for which sum the poor men will run faster even than seems safe ; especially if, as when we went, it is a festival and the road is thronged; women with violently rouged faces, and the high Manchu head-dress of two bows of hair crowning their heads ; little boys with long necklaces of the large, round, red hips, that are called sanjio, when they are made into tarts. It took us an hour to reach the outside gate of the Tartar city. Then our panting men pulled up for a few minutes' rest opposite the pleasant-looking pavilions where the Empress is supposed to pause for tea on her goings to and fro. We looked longingly at the pleasant willow-shaded road by the canal, which would also take us past that beautiful, almost antediluvian monster, the Five Pagoda Temple (Wutahssu) with its memories of India, but probably that road was longer, and it would certainly be heavier-going. So we went on full split along the stone-paved Imperial highway, meeting much strange baggage and some curiouslooking people of various nationalities, till suddenly a little crowd round a garden to the left made it evident something was going on. And dismounting we found an elephant walking about, a baby camel that was made to cry for our benefit by its keepers, and a lion and a tiger, each already packed in a big packing-case and mounted on a cart. It was the Circus, that had been playing before the Court the first ever to play before the Chinese Court that was coming away, and the strange people and baggage were thus now accounted for.

在北京的宮殿間

10月5日

從北京出發，有一個旅遊行程是每位旅客都不應該錯過的，那就是前往玉泉山，這是一座小山或連綿的小山，因為它有多個山頂，看起來就像中國筆架一樣，距離萬壽山的頤和園大約兩英里。一輛人力車包一天，包括三個跑腿人的小費，只需五先令，這些辛苦的車夫會跑得比你認為安全的速度還要快；尤其是當我們去的那天正逢節日，路上人潮洶湧，婦女們臉上塗著濃重的胭脂，頭上戴著滿族婦女特有的髮髻，像兩個蝴蝶結似的頂在頭上；小男孩們脖子上掛著一串串大紅色的野玫瑰果實，這些果實叫做「三角」，通常會被做成餡餅。我們花了一個小時才到達滿城的外城門。然後，氣喘吁吁的車夫們在對面的亭子前停下來，這些亭子看起來很舒適，據說是皇后在往返途中休息喝茶的地方。我們對那條被柳樹遮蔽的運河旁的愉快小路望而興嘆，這條路還會帶我們經過那座美麗的、幾乎像是遠古怪物一樣的五塔寺，充滿了印度的回憶，但這條路可能更長，而且路況也會更差。所以，我們選擇繼續沿著石板鋪設的皇帝大道全速前進，途中遇到了許多奇異的行李和各種國籍的奇特人物，直到突然看到左邊的花園周圍聚集了一小群人，顯然有什麼事情正在發生。下車一看，我們發現有一頭大象在散步，一隻小駱駝正在它的飼養員的引導下哭泣，還有一頭獅子和一頭老虎，各自已經被裝在大箱子裡並放在車上。這是一個馬戲團，據說是第一個在中國宮廷表演的馬戲團，現在正從宮廷返回，這些奇異的人物和行李因此得到了合理解釋。

There were crowds of gaily-dressed people round the entrance to the Summer Palace, but at every gateway soldiers with swords forbade admission. And we sped on our way, till, as we got to the north of the hill, on which the Palace is built, we became aware that even thus parsing by we could see the whole northern slope of the Palace, with all the many very various ornamental buildings upon it a pagoda decorated with the Wheel of the Law, conspicuous among them, and the, alas ! partially destroyed ten thousand Buddha Temple on the top of the hill crowning the whole. The trees were fine, and further entrances behind an ornamental piece of water certainly looked as if one could walk in by them. The sentries now seemed no longer on the defensive, not springing forward waving their swords directly they caught sight of us.

However, without risking a defeat, we proceeded along a road, that was no longer kept in good repair as for the Court's passage, and, arrived at the gates of one of the three Palaces built on the Yiichuan, were firmly and very decidedly refused admission by a young man, who said he was the porter. I had somehow managed to pacify him, and was effecting a passage beyond the reach of his forbidding arm, when my friend's coolies in the most maladroit, insolent fashion barred the way, all clamouring for money to get themselves food, having already refused the 20 cents each that had been offered to them. For a little time it seemed as if we really were to be shut out, all thanks to the misbehaviour of these impertinent fellows. But a lull occurring, I managed to break through the crowd so as to be able to appeal to a man who was evidently a little higher in position than the so-called porter. " Ah ! you want to get some water from our spring. It is excellent!" said he, catching sight of a bottle one of my men was carrying. "Then come in, but only one man must go with you." Thus we got in, as by a subterfuge, and one of our men, and one of their men as a guide, accompanied us.

夏宫入口处挤满了身着华丽服饰的人群，但每个大门口都有持剑的士兵禁止入内。我们继续前行，直到到达宫殿所在山丘的北侧，才意识到即便是这样路过，我们仍然可以看到整个宫殿的北坡，以及上面众多各式各样的装饰性建筑，其中最显眼的是一座装饰有法轮的宝塔，以及山顶上部分被毁的万佛寺，俯瞰着整个景象。树木茂密，而在一处装饰性的水景后方，另有一些入口，看起来似乎可以通过它们走进宫殿。哨兵们此时似乎不再那么防备，不再在看到我们时立即挥剑上前。

然而，我们没有冒险尝试进入，而是沿着一条不再像供朝廷通行时那样良好维护的道路继续前行，最终抵达了位于玉泉山的三座宫殿之一的大门处。一位年轻人自称是门房，坚定而明确地拒绝了我们入内。我不知怎么设法安抚了他，正准备绕过他的阻拦进入时，我的朋友的苦力们却以极不巧妙且傲慢的方式挡住了去路，他们都在喧嚷着要钱买食物，尽管已经拒绝了先前给他们的每人20分钱。当时情况似乎真要因为这些无礼家伙的行为而被拒之门外。但在骚动暂时平息时，我设法突破了人群，向一位显然地位比所谓的门房高一点的人求助。他一看到我手下人拿着的瓶子便说：“啊！你们是想要取我们泉里的水吧？它非常好！”“那就进来吧，但只能让一个人陪你进去。”于是，我们借此借口进了宫，一个我们的手下和一个他们的人作为向导陪同我们。

There were beautiful trees inside and a lake, and many relics of the grand days of old, when the Palaces were built. There were caves above the bubbling spring, and in the caves images, one of Tara, as she seems to be called in India, with one foot dangling, the other turned up, showing its sole, as it rested on the other knee, her face turned almost looking over her left shoulder, the chin tilted, the lips parted with a scornful smile. Above the caves again there were temples, and above them again a pagoda, the 1 most exquisitely beautiful pagoda I have ever seen. It is in the best style of Chinese art, and must date from the same epoch as the beautiful memorial at the Yellow Temple. Many of the decorative designs upon it are identical, only there is always a little more ornamentation added. Animals stood on the waves of the sea, carved in marble round the base of the pagoda, an elephant, a horse, and the like. In the end we thought they might be all the signs of the Zodiac. Then the whole pagoda, seven-storeyed but of slight build, stands upon a gigantic lotus flower, the petals of which are again carved into all manner of beautiful devices. On the different faces of the pagoda below the lotus flower there are very beautiful representations of Tara again, of Puhsien seated on a lotus flower, and that again upon the back of the elephant, on which he is believed to have come riding back from India bringing the prayer-books, till then unknown, and which he is related to have dried upon the wonderful flat top, encircled by precipices, of the Dry Prayer-Book Mountain, or Washan, in Szechuan. There is also Kwanyin, the goddess of mercy, and Kwanti, the god of war. The workmanship was the finest I had yet seen on a pagoda. Below us to the west was a palace enclosure with again the loveliest pagoda, built of shining encaustic bricks beautifully coloured, and roofed with glittering tiles, gold, blue, green. On the highest top of the hill stood another seven-storeyed pagoda, but painted grey and yellow and not remarkable. The all-round view, however, was beautiful, and the more interesting in that at one side it commanded the whole extent of the Wan shou Shan, or Summer Palace grounds, so that we could see and appreciate the plan, note the shape of the lake, the positions of the bridges, as also the island with the bijou Palace. Then, looking further across the plain, we could discern the Coal Hill and the lofty gate towers of Peking, whilst on the other side the Western Hills were spread out before us, with beautiful Pi-yun-ssu and Wo-fo-ssu and their eastern slopes, also the glittering yellow and green-tiled Imperial hunting-box and the ruins of the British Legation ; whilst high up on the back of a hill to the north-west showed out against the sky a curious mass of masonry that I have been assured since was a fortification.

宫殿内有美丽的树木和一个湖泊，还有许多旧日辉煌时代的遗迹，这些宫殿就是在那个时代建造的。湖上方有一些洞穴，洞穴中供奉着雕像，其中一个雕像被称为“多罗菩萨”（Tara），她似乎是在印度如此称呼的。雕像的一只脚悬在空中，另一只脚则向上翘起，脚掌露出，放在另一只膝盖上。她的脸微微转向左肩，抬起下巴，嘴唇带着轻蔑的微笑。洞穴上方有庙宇，而在庙宇之上则是一座宝塔，这座宝塔是我见过的最美丽的宝塔之一。它采用了中国艺术的最佳风格，可能与黄寺的那座美丽的纪念塔建于同一时代。许多装饰图案是相同的，只是多了些许装饰。宝塔基座周围的海浪中雕刻着大理石的动物，如大象、马等。最后我们猜测这些动物可能代表了十二生肖。整个宝塔有七层，但结构轻盈，屹立在一个巨大的莲花花瓣上，这些花瓣上又雕刻了各种精美的图案。在莲花花瓣下方的宝塔不同面上，有着非常美丽的雕像，比如再次出现的多罗菩萨，还有坐在莲花上的普贤菩萨，而莲花又安放在他从印度带回经书的象背上，据说他在四川的无书山（Washan）上，曾把这些经书放在环绕悬崖的山顶晾干。此外，还有慈悲女神观音菩萨和战神关帝。宝塔的工艺是我迄今为止见过的最精美的。

在我们下方的西边有一处宫殿围墙，里面再次有一座美丽的宝塔，建筑由闪亮的釉砖建成，色彩斑斓，屋顶覆盖着金、蓝、绿色的瓦片。山顶上还耸立着另一座七层宝塔，但颜色为灰黄，风格并不特别引人注目。不过，全方位的景色非常美丽，尤其是从一侧可以俯瞰整个万寿山（即颐和园）及其周围的景观，这使我们能够看到湖的形状、桥的位置以及岛上的小巧宫殿。向平原的远处望去，我们还能看到煤山和北京的高大城门塔楼，而另一侧则是西山的美景，包括碧云寺和卧佛寺及其东坡，此外还有闪闪发光的黄绿相间的皇家狩猎行宫和英国使馆的废墟；而在西北方向的山背高处，则有一处显眼的奇特建筑，后来我得知那是一处防御工事。

From where we stood we could see two official walls running zig-zag up the hillside, and many an old watch tower. The Peking plain must often have been fought over, and in what a position we stood to survey a battle ! We turned to wander through the brilliantly, if not too tastefully, painted galleries of the Empress's pleasure- house, built upon the top of a stately wall, and gazed down on some buildings at the foot of the western slope, which I have ever since regretted not going down to examine more minutely, as they seemed to match the lovely little pagoda built of encaustic bricks.

从我们所站的地方，我们可以看到两道官方城墙以之字形蜿蜒爬上山坡，还有许多古老的瞭望塔。北京平原一定曾经是战场，站在这里俯瞰一场战斗该是多么绝佳的位置啊！我们转身漫步在太后行宫那五彩斑斓但可能过于艳丽的长廊中，这座行宫建在一堵庄严的墙顶上。从这里往下看，我们看见了西坡脚下的一些建筑，这些建筑与那座美丽的釉砖宝塔相匹配。至今我仍然遗憾没有下去仔细查看这些建筑。