IV AN IMPERIAL FUNERAL May 15th.
IV 皇帝的葬禮（AN IMPERIAL FUNERAL）
5月15日
ONE May night after a day of dry, burning heat, the wind got up and blew so hard it was impossible to sleep for fear of our tall trees being blown down and falling upon the house. It seemed as if at each gust the wind said, " Now you shall come down!" and in the morning there was a trunk snapped in two and fallen—happily upon an adjacent roof, underneath which no one slept-and the ground strewn with leaves and twigs and tattered strips of bark. How delightfully fresh and altogether different the air felt that morning! I had never then felt anything like it, though I recognised the same invigorating favour afterwards when we visited the Mongolian grasslands. Even in thick woollen clothing we shivered as we sallied forth at six o'clock to see Prince Yung-lu's funeral, walking, because it was too cold to sit in jinrickshas. It seemed but the other day he was the Alcibiades of China, who set the fashion in dress for all the young bloods of Peking, and to whom the Emperor sent horses no one else could ride, because he could always subdue them. And now he was dead! And most of the foreign papers had articles upon him, as if with him one of the great movers of hatred against foreigners had been removed.But to me this had never seemed true.
某個五月的夜晚，在一整天乾燥炙熱的天氣後，風起來了，吹得如此猛烈，我們擔心高大的樹木會被吹倒，壓到房子上，根本無法入睡。似乎每一陣風都在說：「現在你該倒下了！」到早晨時，一棵樹幹應聲而斷，幸運地倒在了旁邊的屋頂上，屋下無人居住，地上滿是落葉、樹枝和破爛的樹皮。
那天早晨的空氣是多麼清新且截然不同啊！我以前從未有過這種感覺，儘管之後我們訪問蒙古草原時，我感受到同樣令人振奮的氣息。即便穿著厚重的羊毛衣物，我們仍然在早晨六點出發去參加榮祿親王（Prince Yung-lu）的葬禮時瑟瑟發抖，因為天氣太冷，我們只能步行，無法坐在人力車上。似乎前幾天他還是中國的阿爾西比亞德（Alcibiades），為北京的年輕人設立服裝的時尚標準，皇帝甚至會派出無人能馴服的馬給他，因為他總是能夠駕馭它們。而現在，他已經去世了！大多數外國報紙都對他發表了文章，彷彿隨著他的逝去，一位仇外運動的主要推動者也被除去了。但對我來說，這一切從未顯得真實。
74 ROUND ABOUT PEKING
I was recalling the pretty story told me only a few months before in far away Szechuan of a young girl who had seen him once ride by, and whenever any husband was proposed for her said always, "Oh, not that man, not that. Let me at least have some one as good-looking as Yung-lu," till at last, as it happened, his wife died, and so then in the end she married Yung-lu himself. I was thinking also how he had succeeded the great Li Hung-chang in the Dowager Empress Ise-hsi's favour, and yet how it was recounted that when there was an intention, as it is said, to make away with the young Emperor, also his relation, Yung-lu had quietly declared that in that case he would place all his troops on the Emperor's side, and the project had been abandoned. Then again is it not related that Yung-lu, under some great provocation, had ordered the favourite eunuch, Li Lien-ying, to be beaten, and thus himself fallen from favour, which had not been restored up to the time of his death. He was the one Chinese man I had wished to see in Peking, and before we arrived he was dead!
我回想起幾個月前在遙遠的四川聽到的一個動人故事，講的是一個年輕女孩曾經見過榮祿（Yung-lu）騎馬經過，從那時起，無論有人向她提親，她總是說：「哦，不是那個人，不是他。至少給我找個像榮祿一樣英俊的人吧。」直到最後，榮祿的妻子去世了，於是她最終嫁給了榮祿。我還在想，他如何在慈禧太后（Dowager Empress Ise-hsi）的寵愛中取代了偉大的李鴻章（Li Hung-chang），然而據說當有人意圖廢除年輕的皇帝時，榮祿作為皇帝的親屬，卻悄悄地宣稱，如果真是這樣，他將會把所有的軍隊部署在皇帝一邊，這個計劃因此被放棄。再者，不是也有人說，榮祿在一次大的挑釁下，曾命令毒打一個最受寵的太監李蓮英（Li Lien-ying），因此失去了太后的恩寵，直到他去世時也未能恢復。他是我唯一想在北京見到的中國人，而在我們到達之前他就已經去世了！
At his gate was waiting the huge catafalque that was to carry away the remains. Leaving it behind we reviewed the various details that were to form the procession, as we walked past altar after altar erected by the wayside and piled high with cakes and pyramids of apples, these last generally made of flour and preternaturally rosy. At each of these altars the procession was to pause, and the people to come out and bow low and do reverence as the coffin passed.All the six Boards of Peking, that is, the six highest government offices, were thus represented. As a rule at the resting-places, were tents over the altars with windows made of blue gauze.
在他的大門前，等候著一個巨大的靈柩架，準備載走他的遺體。我們離開靈柩架後，走過一個又一個在路邊搭建的祭壇，這些祭壇上堆滿了蛋糕和蘋果塔，這些蘋果塔通常是用麵粉製成的，顏色異常鮮紅。每到一個祭壇，送葬隊伍都要停下來，人們出來對著經過的棺材深深鞠躬，表示敬意。所有的北京六部，即最高的六個政府機構，都在這次儀式中有代表出席。通常，在各個停靈處，祭壇上會搭設帳篷，帳篷的窗戶是用藍色紗布製成的。
AN IMPERIAL FUNERAL 75
We walked on and on till we came to the Chaoyang gate, and from the top of it looked round upon the lovely view of Peking city, a forest of trees with the yellow palace roofs just peeping above the spring green, in the distance the square-looking drum tower, with beside it the strangely mediaval Mongol bell tower; nearer at hand the glittering green roofs of a temple dedicated to those who have attained virtue; in the middle distance the pavilion-clad Coal Hill, one of the most exquisite things in Peking, with shining roofs green, golden, and most bewitching of all, peacock blue. Behind it again stood out the fantastic pagoda by the northern lake, and coming to us from it very wide, and, as if ruled straight to us in all its great length, the road along which the procession was to pass. Then, behind all this earthly glory, in the far distance were the Western Hills standing out clear against that ineffably beautiful sky of a windswept dawning, the hills deep blue except where they were covered with fresh fallen snow of the night before, off which the wind blew to us with a most refreshing fillip.
Reluctantly we came down off the wall and walked to meet the procession. First came soldiers on horseback wearing European straw hats which looked a little incongruous, surmounting red waistcoats with red sashes tied round them and picturesque red saddles. Then came the Viceroy Yuan Shih-kai's smart-looking soldiery in dark, somewhat closer-fitting clothes, and again with straw hats. After them walked the falconers in grey and black, one of them carrying a beautiful hooded bird, another leading the dead man's hound.
There were seven of them, said one of this very well and effectively dressed little party. Quite an array of titles followed on coloured boards, each borne by a man in the palace livery, a long green gown with yellow or red discs upon it; after them came two dogs, two pavilions, two stags and two does, and four men, all made out of green bushes; then lion dogs, one made out of golden, one of silver paper, looking more than usually ridiculous as their heads wagged in being carried, the long weepers attached to the golden lion's ears becoming greatly agitated. After them a long train of flags and red umbrellas, together with plants in fullest flower, but, as we gradually discovered, made out of paper, though in real flower pots and vases. Then again titles and all manner of insignia woven out of greenery, long white banners, men again in green and red livery leading five ponies with handsome red silk gowns thrown over their saddles. In between sauntered professional mourners in the white clothes of Chinese mourning, but smoking cigarettes.
我們一直走到朝陽門，從門頂向四周眺望北京城的美麗景色。眼前是一片樹林，春天的嫩綠間隱約可見黃色的宮殿屋頂，遠處是方形的鼓樓，旁邊矗立著奇異的中世紀風格的蒙古鐘樓；更近處，是一座寺廟的閃亮綠色屋頂，這座寺廟供奉那些已經達到德行的人；中間距離的地方，可以看到覆蓋著亭台樓閣的煤山，這是北京最精美的景觀之一，屋頂閃閃發光，呈現綠色、金色，最迷人的還是孔雀藍。再往後，北湖邊上矗立著一座奇幻的塔，從那裡向我們延伸而來的是一條寬闊的道路，彷彿以尺劃線般筆直延伸至我們面前，這條路正是送葬隊伍將經過的路。然後，在這一切世俗榮華的後方，遠處可以看到西山清晰地矗立在風卷殘雲的黎明天空下，除了前夜新降的雪覆蓋的地方，這些山峰呈現深藍色，清風從雪上吹過來，給我們帶來了極其清爽的感覺。
我們依依不捨地從城牆上走下來，步行去迎接送葬隊伍。首先出現的是騎馬的士兵，他們戴著歐式草帽，這和他們穿的紅色背心、腰間綁著紅色腰帶以及華麗的紅色馬鞍看起來有些不協調。接著出現的是總督袁世凱（Yuan Shih-kai）威風凜凜的士兵們，他們穿著深色的稍微合身的制服，也戴著草帽。在他們後面是獵鷹人，身穿灰黑色衣服，一個人抱著一隻戴著兜帽的美麗鳥類，另一個人牽著死者的獵犬。
據說這支小隊伍中共有七人，他們打扮得非常得體和有效地展現出了儀式感。接著出現的是各種頭銜牌匾，由身穿宮廷服飾的男子手持，服裝是長長的綠色長袍，上面有黃色或紅色的圓盤裝飾；在他們之後，是兩隻狗、兩座亭子、兩隻雄鹿和兩隻雌鹿，還有四個人，這些全部由綠色樹枝製成；接下來是獅子狗，一個是用金紙做的，另一個是用銀紙做的，因為它們被抬著時頭部晃動，看起來比平時更加滑稽，金獅子的耳朵上掛著的長長的飾物隨風飄動，非常激動。接著是一長串的旗幟和紅色雨傘，還有開得最盛的花卉，但我們逐漸發現，這些花其實是紙做的，儘管它們是插在真正的花盆和花瓶裡的。然後再是用綠色材料編織的頭銜和各種徽章，長長的白色橫幅，接著是再次穿著綠色和紅色宮廷服飾的人，牽著五匹小馬，小馬鞍上覆蓋著華麗的紅色絲綢長袍。其間穿插著專業的哭喪者，他們穿著中國喪服的白色衣服，但卻在抽煙。
Behind them came men sounding those antique wooden trumpets, which one always feels may have breathed their deep music before the flood. After them men in the palace livery again of long red gowns flowered with discs, carrying all Yung-u's many titles and the umbrellas presented to him.
Behind them strode Mongol Lamas, looking like particularly grand Mandarins in their golden brocades, and men only less splendid in red brocade with black caps, who said they were neither Lamas nor priests, but, as far as I could make out, Lao Tao (old Taoists) from the Pai Yuen Temple. They were said to have plaits of hair inside their caps, but it did not appear as if they had. Then many fantastic yellow constructions were carried by, with every now and then green sedan chairs borne by men in white mourning raiment, interspersed with men with red clothes and very high fez-like caps, flat back and front, who each carried gongs, but did not strike them as far as we could see. Then came Yung-lu's own cart lined with rich blue silk, his own particular charger, another green sedan chair covered with leopard skins, in which he was carried coram populo for all to see on great state occasions, and which being now empty went by with an uncanny jiggety joggety motion, as if mocking, " He is dead ! he is dead! the man who used to ride in me, yet see how alive I am!" Then other sedans were carried by mourners, and the dead man's mule litter with flowering boughs laid on the seat, where he used to recline. After that a long defile of mock horses made of paper with wheels under their feet, but with real manes and tails, and behind them more paper horses with paper carts behind them. Then came a crowd of men dressed in green with blue feathers high upstanding, throwing up into the air clouds of paper money, a largesse for the dead. After this were carried imitation official caps, necklaces, purses, and tobacco pouches, and spectacle cases, books, etc., all to be burnt at the grave, together with the paper horses and carts, and thus accompany the spirit. And then amidst a crowd of soldiery the catafalque itself, covered with red brocade with a little shawl pattern on it, not half so effective, we thought, as the pall so often seen in Peking, of dark blue satin, embroidered with large golden dragons. Immediately behind the coffin mourning carts and chairs; in each one woman in white with the disfiguring white mourning cloth bound round the head, and as a rule quite spoiling the effect by smoking a cigarette. Then came many very smart carts and some very good-looking horses.
在他們後面跟著的是一群吹奏古老木製喇叭的人，那深沉的音樂總讓人覺得可能是洪水之前就已經響起過的。緊隨其後的是一群穿著宮廷制服的男子，身著長長的紅袍，袍上有花卉圖案的圓盤，他們手持榮祿（Yung-lu）的各種頭銜牌匾和傘具。
接著出現的是蒙古喇嘛（Mongol Lamas），他們看起來就像穿著金色錦緞的特別威嚴的官員，還有一群稍微遜色的男子，穿著紅色錦緞，戴著黑色帽子，他們聲稱自己既不是喇嘛也不是僧侶，但據我了解，他們是白雲觀的老道士（Lao Tao from the Pai Yuen Temple）。據說他們的帽子裡有髮辮，但看起來似乎並沒有。然後，一些奇異的黃色構造物被抬過，時不時地還有綠色的轎子，由穿著白色喪服的男子抬著，穿插著穿紅色衣服和戴著高高的似費斯帽的男子，這些帽子前後平整，每人手中都拿著銅鑼，但我們看見他們並沒有敲打。接著出現的是榮祿的專用馬車，內襯華麗的藍色絲綢，還有他專屬的駿馬，另一個綠色的轎子上覆蓋著豹皮，榮祿在重大的國事場合會坐在這裡，供眾人瞻仰。現在這個空空的轎子搖搖晃晃地通過，彷彿在嘲弄道：「他死了！他死了！曾經乘坐我的人已不在了，但看看我還多麼有活力！」然後其他的轎子被送葬者抬過來，接著是死者的騾轎，上面擺放著開花的樹枝，那是他生前經常躺著休息的地方。之後，一隊用紙做成的假馬隊伍跟隨而來，馬的腳下裝有輪子，但卻有真實的鬃毛和尾巴，後面還跟著更多用紙做的馬和紙車。然後出現了一群穿著綠色衣服、頭戴藍色羽毛的男子，他們將紙錢拋向空中，這些紙錢是為死者準備的施捨。隨後，人們抬著仿製的官帽、項鍊、錢包、煙草袋、眼鏡盒、書籍等物品，這些都將在墓地燒掉，與那些紙馬和紙車一起，陪伴亡靈。接著，在一群士兵的簇擁下，靈柩架本身被抬了過來，它覆蓋著紅色的錦緞，上面有小花圖案的披肩，但我們覺得效果遠不如北京常見的靈柩布，那種深藍色緞子上繡著大金龍的覆蓋物。靈柩後面緊跟著送葬的車輛和椅子，每輛車上都有一名穿著白色喪服的女子，她們頭上裹著難看的白色喪布，通常在吸煙時會破壞整體效果。然後出現了許多非常華麗的車輛和一些非常好看的馬匹。