INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page 1

CHAPTER I CHUNGKING TO THE BRINE WELLS RIVER

Departure from Chungking. High Forways of Fu Chi Ti. High Road to the Capital. Cross Ranges. Market Town of Pei Sha Yi. Palace of Heaven. Paddy-fields. The Weald of Kent. House supported on Bridge. Robbers' Heads Exposed. City of Eternal Streams. Pi Pa Valley. City of Light. A Lucky Bath. Banyan. Peaceful Hamlet. Travelling in a Sedan Chair. Water Buffaloes. Salt Factory. Coal Mine. Food Bridge. Mills. Saminba. Graceful Triumphal Arches. Monolith Transported on Men's Shoulders. Grabarrel Tree or Assai Scenery. On Lake Ferry. The Brine Wells River. Filthy Quarters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pp. 4-17

CHAPTER II THE BRINE WELLS

Nonworking Free Ferry. Home Catholic Hospital. Salt Carriers. Poling Up Stream. Bamboo Grove. Numerous Chinese Family. Fall into a Paddy Field. Tea-tsin. Chit's Scaffolding. Grass replaces Paddy. Cities of Refuge. Strange View for China. No Inn would take us in. Useage of Chinese Restaurant. Oil Wells. Bamboo Piping. Salt Storage on a large Scale. Large Bridge. Festival of the Gods. Storage Vats, Aqueducts, and Wooden Towers. Chain Pumps worked by Crew. The Silence of Working People. Wonderful Cave System. Hoping to reach Salt in Three Years . . . . . . . . . Pp. 18-33

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CHAPTER III FROM TSZ' LUI CHING TO KIATING FU Impoverished Salt Wells. Paying Clients. The great System of Sweating. Restaurant with Highroad through it. Cross Ranges. Rare Utilitarianism. New Triumphal Arch. A Palatine District. Goddess of Mercy Precipice. Colossal Buddha's Head. Self-acting Irrigating Wheels. Suicide Pills. Opium Growing. Wireless Szechuan. Buddhist Lama Tower. Military Cross. By instinct. Northern River. Iron Mountain Fortifications. Pi-iang again. No Stone used. Refection House. O Mi To Fu. Chinese Main Road. Handsome Bridges. Massive Gates. At Last the River Min . . . . . . . . Pp. 34-50

CHAPTER IV AT THE FOOT OF MOUNT OMI The Port Tree and Tower. River Nerves of Kiating. All in Flood. Colossal Buddha. First View of Omi. Ceremonial Bath. Grasses on Houses. Salt Junk. Buddha and Cross. Dragons and Embroideries. Missions. China Inland and Roman Catholic. Hotel Bill. Social Pilgrims. Silk and White Wax. City of Omi. Huge Bull. Bronze Pagoda. Limestone Ravine. Iron Suspension Bridge. Pair of Dragon Bridges. Butterfly Collection. What Rain has done. Trying Coolies. Ancient and Modern. First Spring's English. Temple Gates. An Ancient Chinese Building. Pilgrims' Press. Great Guest Room. Dining with a Chief Priest. Vegetarian Banquet. Barefaced Begging. Danger from Tigers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pp. 51-69

CHAPTER V ON THE SACRED MOUNTAIN'S SIDE Life-sized Image of Tiger. Upwards and Onwards. Temple Breakfast. Delightful Pine Wood. Han Yen Ping, the one Taoist Temple on Mountain. Determined Pests. On the Watch of a Moonlight Night. Giving to the Earth. Lotus Rock Temple. Where Puhsien washed his Elephant. Wealthy and Inhospitable Temple. Rest at Last! Virgin Forest. Wood Cutters' Path. Charred Images. Magnificent Panorama. Tai Tung Ping. First view of Snow Summits of Thibet. Rhododendron Jungle. Teh Fus! From Temple to Temple. Flash and Blood Images. Summit Plateau. Awful Precipices. Thousand Buddhist Shrine. Fifty Taels a Night. Picnicking on the Mountain. Golden Pavilion Temple . . . . . . . . . . . . Pp. 70-89

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CHAPTER VI ON OMI'S SUMMIT Morning Views. Mountain Railway, Light Literature. Precious Relics. Beautiful Fragments. Myriad Buddhas' Temple. Magnificent Cloud Effects. Chinese District. Temple Workmen. Deft Carpenters. Two Table Mountains. Clean little Temple and Pleasing Priest. Erecting an Abbey. The 'Suicides' Precipice. Descending to Tai Tung Ping. Lamps of Mercy. Polite Begging. Glory of Buddha. Arrival of a Missionary. Interested Below Us. Personifications of Misfortune . . Pp. 90-105

CHAPTER VII THROUGH THE WILDERNESS AND BY TUNG RIVER Early start. Down below. Through the Wilderness. Romantic Glades of Mercy River. At the Thlawel Rest. Green Snake. Wild Boars. Strings of Salt Porters. Exhaustion by Heat. Thanks to a Taoist Nun. Ta Wat. Plucky Pony! Extraordinary Steepness. Wild Mountain Inn. Once more the Tung River. House of the Independent Lolo. Golden Gate Village. Coming from the Flay. Almost Impossible Inn. Rapid Rise and Fall of River . . . . . . Pp. 106-119

CHAPTER VIII UP THE SAI KING SHAN, OR DRY PRAYER BOOKS MOUNTAIN Attempt to Come over against the Unconquered Lolos. Broken Roads and Bridges. Romantic Ravine. Wading. One Survivor out of Twenty-five. Stupendous Vertical Walls. Deciding which way to Climb Sai King. Priest Proprietor and Mountain Guide. Rock Amphitheatre 3,000 feet high. Herd of Cattle. Lily Paradise. Fairy Bridges. Up a Knife Edge. Tibet Ladders. Park-like Top. Rough Temple. Temple History. Rhododendron Thicket. Grinding Mists to Peep When. Cessation of Heat. Women Embroidery . . . . . . . Pp. 120-134

CHAPTER IX ANCIENT LOLO LAND Roman Catholic Village. Deforestation. Nine Thousand Feet Pass. Vertically Between Us and Our Goal. Huang Ma Market Town. Roman Catholic Mission. Lolo Groves. Market Day. Lolo Beauties. Lolos to Tea. Lolos going Home. Salt Carriers Gains. Three Passes. Rudeness in Market Towns. Hothouse Vegetation. Cantilever Bridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pp. 135-144

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CHAPTER X THE THIBETAN BORDER Falls. China Chows the Yellow River. Horse Promised Before Starting. Shih Ta Kai's Mistake. His Army's Destruction. Szechuan Saved from Tai-pings. No Ponies! Vegetation. Damage done by Rains. Cataracts of Stones. Dragons' Eggs not Destroyed. Pack Mule Killed on the Spot. River of Purple Mud. Steep Rock Staircase. Pleasant Resting-place. Mud River. Thinking of Turning Back. Twenty Bags. Crossing a Stream in Spate. Girls Gathering Wax. Pony and Mule at Last. Dangerous Washout. Ho! Old Creaking Ley Cooperage Inn . . . . . . . . . . . . Pp. 145-160

CHAPTER XI BOUND SNOW-LAND AND ON TO THIBET Fei Yue Pass. Brick Tea Carriers. Phoenix Flat. Tung River Again. Cascade of Seven Falls. Landslide. Boundary between China and Thibet. Seven Waterfalls Uniting. Frontier Town. Flowers by River Bank. Lasting Bridge. Men Stationed to Help Travellers Across Bridge. Granite Mountains. Thibetan Villages. Thibetans. Letters to Dead Relations. Thibetan Names. Reading Bible Corridor. Vertical Granite Wall. Tibet Temple Village. Tung now known as Golden Stream. Tarchendo Sacred. Thibetan Suspension Bridges. Arrival at Ta Chien Lu. Buttered Tea and Beef Steak . . . . Pp. 161-179

CHAPTER XII TA CHIEN LU, ITS LAMAS, DOGS AND PONIES The Three Valleys of Ta Chien Lu. European Pollution of Water. Thibetan Tower of Prince. Orientation. Brick-tea Warehouse Inn. No Yaks. Lama Monastery Property Institute. Lama Self-confidence. A Photographer. Human Skulls as Ornaments. Prayer Slates. Curfew. No Prayer Wheels to be Sold. The Last Podoi Hun. Thibetan Dignity. Betang. Changed Boundaries. Cold Wind of Tibet. Roman Catholic Fathers. Variety of Tribes. Beauty of Features. Park. Excellent Market. Beautiful Pictures. Gloomy Details. Treasure Mules in Charge of Mandarin. Gold Mining. Another Attempt to Cross Tung. Sure-footed Pony. Prickly Pears. Drought. Deforestation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pp. 180-195

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CHAPTER XIII BACK IN CHINA AGAIN Theatrical Scene at Yemen. Coolies Malingering. Sleeping in Brick-tea Porters' Refuge. Phoenix Flat. Fei Yueh Pass. Granite Monolith. Through Belt of Buckwheat. Going Chi Wind. Pass of Very Grey Stones. Military Post. Roman Paved Path to Coast. Seven Great Rocks. Elephant Pass. Discarded Sandals. Distilleries. Illegal Water. Passing between Tung and Ya. Where Students were Turned Back. Tavern of Yellow Earth. Who Repairs the Roads? . . . Pp. 196-207