CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY.

The Government of the Chinese—Revolutions—Trade—Taxes—Our interests in Szechuan—Imports and exports—Comparative trade of all the provinces .... 1

CHAPTER II. SHANGHAI TO ICHANG.

Shanghai to Ichang—Hankow—A Yang-tse boat—Shasse—The plains of Hupeh—A Szechuan river-boat—Flooded districts—Approach to the hills—Ichang .... 15

CHAPTER III. ICHANG AND ITS ENVIRONS.

The foreign community—Fishing with otters—“Feng Shui”—The conglomerate country—Cave of the Dragon King—Underground Lake—The “Dome”—Startling coup-t’ai—Cloud-mist Mountain—Chinese country house—Unexpected hospitality—Master and servant—Auspicious site—Woodcutters—Steep climb—Chinese “Pahs”—Taoist temple—Magnificent prospect—Ascent of the Golden Peak—Chinese candles—A model hotel bill—Plank bridge—Return to Ichang .... 37

Contents

CHAPTER IV. ABOVE ICHANG.

Start for the gorges—Grand coupt-tail—Tourist's inscriptions—A factory of boulders—Advantages of a light boat—A temple school—A "Feng Shui" problem . . . 50

CHAPTER V. IN SZECHUAN.

The Customs at Kwei-chow—Transit passes—Their effect on the provincial officials—The drought—Anthracite at Kwei-chow—Visit to a mandarin—A concert—Management of the junks . . . 87

CHAPTER VI. ON TO CHUNG-KING.

Iron workers—Census taking—Site of old Chung-chow—A rain-bringing opera—Deforesting of the country—Feng-tsa—The temple of the Chinese Plato—Fu-chow—Chang-chow—First sight of Chung-king . . . 107

CHAPTER VII. CHUNG-KING.

The weather—Morning calls—Visit to a Chinese country house—A fine road—A tedious meal—Personal uncleanliness—The Tung family—"Feng Shui" again—A tough yarn—An inscription . . . 135

CHAPTER VIII. CHUNG-KING.

Return to town—Catholic and other missions—Visitors—The China Inland Mission—Native post—A Taoist temple—The priests hard-up—Chinese bankers—An elephant town—Across the river—The Catholic cathedral—Charming surroundings of the city—Filth visible—Dull evenings—Chews—Malt liquor—A public garden—The walls—Slow progress of the missionaries . . . 153

Contents

CHAPTER IX.