以下是拼寫校正後的文本：

Faint but fashionable — Serrated outline — Good masonry — No amusements — Finished picturesque effect — R.C. Sisters — Insect life — Missionaries' side efforts — Primaeval Laurentian — No way out . 13

AUGUST IN CHEFOO

"NOTHING is more striking in China than the weary, worn looks of the women — the European, I mean. Why they should fade, whilst English men with rosy cheeks bloom in perennial youth, so that I not uncommonly take men of thirty-five for boys of twenty-two, has exercised my mind ever since I first caught sight of the European community on the Shanghai racecourse. Now coming to Chefoo has, I think, at last explained it. English ladies in China live tightly girt, and gant-de-Suédé just as if they were going to drive out in a carriage and take a turn in Hyde Park with the thermometer in the sixties. Now, as for months together here the thermometer seems to be in the nineties, this simply means that for months together the ladies here take next to no exercise, and in some cases none. No small proportion of them neither play lawn tennis nor ride. Meanwhile the men are walking, rowing, bathing, shooting, playing cricket, tennis, etc., etc., and hence, I imagine, the rosy cheeks of the one and the pale weariness of the others. With a vivid recollection of bathing places in the north of France, where Parisian élégantes recoup themselves for the fatigue of previous toilettes by wandering about all day in the loosest and plainest and most convenient of sacques, or, in more primitive bathing places untouched by breath of English propriety and proportionally dear to the Parisian, in a bathing dress and shawl and parasol; with a vivid recollection of these French bathing places, I fully expected that cosmopolitan China would strike a middle course between these airy garments and those of the English seaside place, which, with its brown holland or serge, looks alike prepared for a ten-mile walk across country, or a scramble on the rocks. But no! I have seen no one on the rocks yet, I have seen no one walking, nor even sitting on the sand by the seashore. And the explanation is not far to seek. Their dresses are tight-fitting, their shoes are thin, their heels are high, and in this hothouse air surcharged with moisture the least movement must produce consequences disastrous to their new gloves. Thus cheeks are pale and expressions sad, as they are carried to and fro in sedan chairs, or have those sedans placed by the seashore, where, still sitting bolt upright as in Hyde Park, they can continue the gossip interrupted in Shanghai. In itself Chefoo is well enough, the air is fresh in spite of the heat, the sea is as blue as heart could wish. What with the stars and the wonderfully bright summer moon the nights are only too brilliantly lighted without electricity, and though the country a little recalls that described by Southey in the "Curse of Kehama," there being barely a tree or a green leaf to be seen anywhere, yet the wonderfully varied indentations of the bay and the serrated outline of the range of hills that shut it in to the west, place Chefoo high, very high for picturesqueness, if compared with Blankenbergh or Scheveningen, and bring it into the same category with Holyhead or Étretat."

淡淡的卻時尚——鋸齒狀輪廓——良好的石工技藝——無娛樂活動——完美的風景效果——天主教修女——昆蟲生活——傳教士的副業努力——原始的勞倫廷岩層——無路可走 . 13

八月在煙台

「在中國，最令人驚訝的是那些歐洲女性疲憊、憔悴的樣子。我一直在想，為什麼她們會逐漸憔悴，而英國男性卻依然紅潤有光，彷彿永遠年輕，以至於我經常將三十五歲的男子錯認為二十二歲的少年。自從我第一次在上海的賽馬場看到歐洲社區以來，這個問題就困擾著我。現在來到煙台後，我想我終於明白了其中的原因。在中國的英國女士們穿著緊身衣物，戴著麂皮手套，就像她們要乘馬車出門，在海德公園裡散步一樣，即使氣溫在六十華氏度左右。然而，這裡的氣溫似乎連續幾個月都在九十華氏度左右，這意味著這些女士們幾個月來幾乎沒有運動，甚至完全不運動。其中有不少人既不打草地網球，也不騎馬。與此同時，男性們則在散步、划船、游泳、射擊、打板球、網球等，因此我猜這就是為什麼他們臉色紅潤，而女士們則顯得蒼白疲憊的原因。在我清晰的記憶中，法國北部的海濱浴場，巴黎的優雅女士們在那裡度過整天，穿著最寬鬆、最簡單、最方便的衣服，恢復之前繁複梳妝的疲憊，或者在那些未受英國道德觀影響的更原始的浴場裡，穿著浴衣、披著披肩、撐著陽傘；回憶起這些法國的浴場，我原以為國際化的中國會在這些輕便衣物和英國海邊地點的衣物之間找到一個中間路線，後者以棕色亞麻布或粗紗製成，看起來既適合在鄉間徒步十英里，也適合在岩石上攀爬。但事實並非如此！我還沒看到有人在岩石上活動，也沒看到有人散步，甚至沒看到有人坐在海邊的沙灘上。原因並不難理解。她們的衣服是緊身的，鞋子很薄，鞋跟很高，在這個充滿濕氣的溫室般的空氣中，稍微一動就可能對她們的新手套造成災難性的後果。因此，當她們被轎子抬來抬去時，臉色蒼白，神情悲傷，或者她們坐在轎子裡，被放在海邊，依然像在海德公園那樣端坐著，可以繼續在上海被打斷的閒聊。煙台本身還算不錯，儘管炎熱，空氣依然清新，海水藍得讓人心滿意足。有了星星和那奇異明亮的夏夜月光，即使沒有電，夜晚也被照得過於明亮。雖然這片土地讓我聯想起索瑟（Southey）在《克赫馬咒》（Curse of Kehama）中描述的場景，幾乎看不到一棵樹或一片綠葉，但灣區奇妙多變的海岸線和西面連綿的山脈鋸齒狀的輪廓，使得煙台的風景如果與布蘭肯貝赫（Blankenbergh）或斯赫弗寧恩（Scheveningen）相比，無疑是極其美麗的，並將其與霍利黑德（Holyhead）或埃特勒塔（Étretat）歸為同一類。」

AUGUST IN CHEFOO 15

It reminds me a good deal of Holyhead, indeed, when one crosses over to Tse Fu T'ou, the real Chefoo, at the other side of the harbour, and dimbing one of the hills there sits looking out seaward, with Corea and Japan taking the place of much troubled Ireland as the only land between that bare hillside and the vast continent of the Americas. Holyhead has the same blue sea, and is possibly about the same height out of the water as one of these hills, but it certainly more vividly recalls the wintry storms that have raged against it, and in so far is grander. On the other hand it does not look out upon the enchanting panorama of fairy blue mountains to the south, that look as if they had stepped out of Arabia Petraea, and never a drop of rain fallen upon them since the creation of man. And it certainly has not got the stone masons of the real Chefoo, the village of Tse Fu, nor of the town and watering-place that have usurped the name, and are popularly known amongst Europeans as Chefoo. Chefoo's speciality is walls, walls of irregularly-hewn blocks of stone adroitly fitted together, cemented with raw mortar and eminendy fitted to resist a siege. The meanest house, and there are in reality no mean houses in the neighbourhood, has a wall that a fortress in any other country might envy. And everything seems finished off thoroughly well, arid with the greatest care, and excellent taste, the windows, the doors, the roofs, the sides of the inner courtyards painted in panels black and white, with sometimes an additional black and white design, simple but elegant.

The European colony has done its part bravely; it has got a cool, airy, solid-looking club, which with the greatest liberality is thrown open to ladies in the morning hours. There are a lawn tennis dub, and churches and chapels to suit most varieties of thought. What the Europeans of Chefoo can do for their visitors has been done and done well. They have even got the Taotai to forbid the bathing of Chinese — undraped — ^before the European hotels. But, on the other hand, no one fresh from Europe can fail to be struck by a certain absence of life due to the want of initiative on the part of the Chinese. Not even to make money out of us do they put themselves out to welcome us. No pretty sailing boats with gaudy flags tempt you for filthy lucre. No woman offers chairs for cash upon the sands. No girls with flowers perfume the air. No ponies, not even the well-beloved donkeys with red trappings, stand for hire at the comers of the streets. No sedan chairs ply for hire. Even the old familiar but most unbeloved seaside music is missed from the sands of Chefoo.

這裡的景象讓我不禁想起了霍利黑德（Holyhead）。當你穿越港口來到真正的煙台，即芝罘頭（Tse Fu T'ou），並爬上一座山，坐在那裡眺望海洋時，朝鮮和日本取代了動蕩不安的愛爾蘭，成為這片光禿禿的山坡和廣袤的美洲大陸之間唯一的陸地。霍利黑德也擁有同樣湛藍的海水，從海面到這些山丘的高度可能也差不多，但它更讓人聯想到那些曾經肆虐的冬季風暴，因此在某種程度上顯得更加壯觀。

然而，霍利黑德並沒有眺望南方那片如同從阿拉伯沙漠中走出的仙境般的藍色山脈，那些山脈看起來彷彿自人類創造以來就從未被雨水滋潤過。此外，霍利黑德也沒有擁有真正的煙台——芝罘村——的石匠工藝，也沒有擁有那些篡奪了「煙台」之名、在歐洲人中廣為人知的城鎮和度假地區。煙台的特色在於它的城牆，這些由不規則石塊巧妙拼接、用生灰漿黏合在一起的牆壁，非常適合抵禦圍攻。即使是最簡陋的房屋，而事實上這附近並沒有真正簡陋的房子，其牆壁也足以讓任何其他國家的堡壘羨慕。這裡的一切都做得非常精緻，並且充滿了極大的關注和出色的品味，窗戶、門、屋頂、內院的側面都以黑白相間的面板裝飾，有時還加上一些簡單但優雅的黑白圖案。

歐洲人社區做出了他們的努力；他們擁有一個涼爽、通風、看起來結實的俱樂部，並且在上午時間慷慨地對女士們開放。這裡有一個草地網球俱樂部，還有能滿足各種思想需求的教堂和禮拜堂。煙台的歐洲人為他們的訪客所能做的事都做了，而且做得很好。他們甚至讓道台禁止中國人在歐洲酒店前裸泳。但另一方面，任何剛從歐洲來到這裡的人都會發現，由於中國人缺乏主動性，這裡的生活氣息略顯缺乏。即便是為了賺錢，他們也不會刻意歡迎我們。沒有裝飾著華麗旗幟的漂亮帆船來引誘你花錢。沒有婦女在沙灘上提供收費椅子。沒有女孩拿著花朵使空氣充滿香氣。沒有小馬，甚至連那些深受喜愛的紅色裝飾的驢子也沒有在街角等待出租。沒有轎子在這裡營運。甚至連那熟悉但不受歡迎的海邊音樂也缺席在煙台的沙灘上。

AUGUST IN CHEFOO 17

The thermometer soon rose to ninety-two in the house, and the north-east breeze, which was so refreshing when we arrived, changed into a south-west wind, which yet brought not the longwbhed-for rain, the sun still shining out of a molten sky upon the evidences of drought all round.

Thus, in spite of rocky islands, so called Bois de Boulogne, Bamboo Temple, and Lighthouse all to visit, in spite of the bathing, and sailing and riding, I missed a litde the lively hucksters of European sands, the various and novel and decidedly somewhat exciting negligie costumes of the Continent of Europe. Friends in England wonder I do not find China more amusing. So do L But countries differ. And much though I love England I doubt its being at all an amusing country for a foreigner to travel in. Anyway I did not even find Chefoo amusing, although it was then China's one sea bath, and it was the height of the Chefoo season before we came away. The summer heat was then a thing of the past, although the bright setded autumn weather with its steady wind, by which you can sail outwards every morning and count on sailing homewards every evening in time for dinner, had not asserted itself. For we still had occasional rainstorms, and one day "drizzling drearily" just as it might at home. Yet there was nothing to complain of in the weather. It was cool and pleasant, yet not chilly ; you could be out all day, and yet you could sit out even in the evening with impunity. At the same time I was getting a litde tired of the mtse-enseine. The modem stage has demoralised us into expecting a constant change de cUcors, and so though the view from our verandah was quite eyesatisfying — ^for what can one want more than to look across a Chinese artistic railing, between artistic Chinese reed blinds, on to a sea bluer than blue, finished off opposite with islands and lighthouse, finished off to the left by the out-jutting hill with its bungalows and outcropping rocks, with at low water delicious green reflections in the sea below ? yet one sighed for some variety. Sometimes a procession of Roman Catholic Sisters, with bloodless, but radiant faces, ash-white veils hanging backwards, ash-white garments sweeping to the ground, looking at a little distance like corpses in their grave clothes, stood upon the rocks or passed along the sands. Every night the lighthouse lighted up, every morning the sun rose out of the sea. I could see it as I lay in bed if I liked, but I longed for a change of scene instead of just those light effects, which we have seen upon the stage so often to the sound of soft music, heralding the advent of the villain or the heroine all in white and with dishevelled hair.

溫度計很快就升到了屋內的華氏九十二度，而我們剛來時那令人清爽的東北風，變成了西南風，但依然沒有帶來期盼已久的雨水，太陽依舊從熔化的天空中照射下來，周圍全是乾旱的跡象。

因此，儘管還有許多地方可以參觀，比如岩石島、所謂的布洛涅森林（Bois de Boulogne）、竹林寺和燈塔，儘管還有游泳、帆船和騎馬的活動，我還是有點想念歐洲沙灘上的熱鬧小販，那些各式各樣、新穎且帶有些許刺激感的歐洲大陸便裝。在英國的朋友們不明白為什麼我覺得中國不那麼有趣，我自己也是如此。但各國情況不同。儘管我非常愛英國，但我懷疑它對外國遊客來說是否有趣。無論如何，我在煙台也沒有找到太多樂趣，儘管當時那是中國唯一的海濱浴場，並且我們離開前正值煙台的旺季。當時的夏季酷熱已成過去，雖然明亮的秋天氣候已經穩定，微風徐徐，每天早上你可以出海，並確保在晚上回來趕上晚餐，但這種天氣還未完全到來。我們仍然偶爾會遇到暴風雨，有一天的天氣甚至像在家裡一樣「陰沉地細雨霏霏」。但天氣並沒有什麼可抱怨的。天氣涼爽宜人，卻不寒冷；你可以整天在外面，甚至可以在晚上坐在戶外而無恙。與此同時，我有點厭倦了這種場景。現代舞台讓我們習慣了不斷變換的布景，因此，儘管我們陽台上的景色相當令人滿意——透過中國風格的藝術欄杆，透過藝術的中國蘆葦百葉窗，你可以看到比藍還藍的大海，對面是島嶼和燈塔，左邊是伸出海面的山丘，山上有別墅和露出的岩石，退潮時海面下還有美麗的綠色倒影——但人們仍然渴望一些變化。有時候，一隊羅馬天主教修女會經過，面色蒼白卻容光煥發，灰白的面紗垂在後面，灰白的長袍拖地，看上去像是穿著壽衣的屍體，站在岩石上或走過沙灘。每晚燈塔都會亮起燈光，每天早晨太陽從海上升起。如果我願意，我可以躺在床上看到這一幕，但我渴望變換一下場景，而不是僅僅看到那些燈光效果，就像我們在舞台上常常看到的那樣，伴隨著柔和的音樂，預示著反派或女主角的登場，全身穿白色衣服，頭髮凌亂。

AUGUST IN CHEFOO 19